To market, to market

The Italian architect and engineer, Giuseppe Mengoni (1829-1877) is famous for having designed the Gallery Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. What is more, he tragically fell to his death from its dome shortly before its inauguration. However, before his death, Mengoni also designed several buildings in Florence. These included the Central Market, known to Florentines as the Market of San Lorenzo and, in 1873, the Market of Sant’Ambrogio in the Santa Croce quarter. Because this is the part of town I love and where I live, let me give you one or two tips for inexpensive shopping and eating in the area.

Situated in Piazza Ghiberti, the Sant’Ambrogio Market is open every morning except on Sundays and holidays. In the external part of the market, under the roof extension, stalls sell fruit, vegetables and other food stuffs as well as flowers, clothes (also second-hand clothes), shoes, bags, costume jewellery and some bic a brac at very competitive prices. Inside of the building, there are mainly other food stalls and places to eat or get a quick drink.

At the end of a mornings shopping, I suggest one of three inexpensive places where you can get a bite to eat – each and every one of them a Santa Croce experience. Within the Market itself, there is Rocco’s Tavola Calda. You can either eat there, although not on particularly comfortable benches, or you can take away. It is cheap and cheery and the comings and goings of the market around you provide great entertainment value.

Secondly, in via dei Macci, right in front of one of Florence’s swankiest restaurants, you will find the stand of the trippaio Sergio Pollini and his son, Pierpaolo. Tripe sellers are part of Florentine tradition and they have been selling tripe here for well over a century and cannot be found in other Italian cities. They specialise in tripe and lampredotto rolls, all washed down with a large glass of Chianti wine.

But should tripe or lampredotto not be to your liking, then turn the corner into via Pietrapiana where you will find the Rosticceria La Ghiotta. Once past the take-away food part at the entrance, make your way to the tables at the back. Although all of owner Andrea Ladisa’s food is hearty, I suggest the made-to-your-order dishes from the menu rather than those prepared beforehand ready to be taken away. Having time, it’s worth the short wait. His pizzas in the evening are also very good although the noise level of a room full of Italians all talking at once can be a bit of a cultural shock.

Enjoy…..